Cellar Bar

The dark slip of a room in Bourke Street is such a familiar sight, we probably take it for granted. You can stop in for coffee or a bowl of perfectly crisp chips with a fino and pineapple spritz. It’s ready when you need a quick bowl of pasta with no pomp. Its wood-panelled walls, dark wood bar and gorgeous parquetry floors add gravitas to any occasion.

It’s changed hands in the last year and, while the classics on the menu haven’t gone anywhere, there’s something a little off in the service and atmosphere. Perhaps it’s just the growing pains of new ownership, or being part of a big group with many balls in the air.

That aside, you can still get excellent snacks to go with the lovely wine list, chalked up on a board that servers bring to your table. Chopped raw salmon is tumbled with with horseradish-tinged ricotta and pickled onions. A winter panzanella salad of creamy butter beans, snappy green beans, artichokes and capers shows the kitchen’s penchant for seasonal twists on Italian classics.

Pastas are always a safe bet, from the warming and steadfast lasagne to saffron risoni topped with ossobuco and zapped with gremolata. Some things are classic for a reason.

Good to know: Quick visits are often a smoother ride service-wise.

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