Daphne

Where its sister venue Etta is small, upscale, quietly ambitious and built for date night, Daphne is larger, more affordable, more casual, and built for whatever you want it to be.

The Lygon Street space takes some of its cues from the American diner, albeit one that’s muted and chic rather than retro and garish. It all feels very convivial.

If you’re just here for a snack and a martini (there are multiple versions, and they’re only $15 on Mondays), don’t go past the mortadella skewer, a crispy, salty, fatty couple of mouthfuls, interspersed with the sweetness and acid of pickled pumpkin.

This season’s tomatoes might be presented in a beautiful salad meant to mimic a bloody mary; another week they’re showcased with parmesan cream and pickled shallot.

Most of what’s on offer is food that’s just plain easy to love. The sage brown butter on spinach and cheese ravioli is deeply savoury. The roast chicken comes with tangy black garlic glaze and lemon, and the juicy rock flathead is covered in a classic tomato, garlic and caper butter. A vital addition to the changing face of Brunswick East.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.