Bombay Meri Jaan

You have reached your maximum number of saved items.

Remove items from your saved list to add more.

You've used all of your gift articles. 3 more will become available on the 1st of every month.

Pop a pani puri in your mouth, crunch into the thin pastry sphere, enjoy the rush of sour tamarind dressing, and imagine yourself on the steamy streets of Mumbai, standing in front of a vendor selling snacky balls of joy. Bombay Meri Jaan is succeeding in its mission: transposing India’s diverse, food-obsessed western metropolis to multicultural, food-crazy Melbourne.

They do butter chicken (it’s good, juicy, tandoor-cooked chook in a rich tomato gravy), but it’s a gateway through which to lure initiates to other dishes. There’s chole masala, chickpeas in tangy gravy soured with dried pomegranate and mango powders. You might choose that as part of a thali, a great-value tray meal with samosa, rice and dessert. Don’t miss the ragda patties, a Mumbai hawker classic.

Cumin-spiced potato cakes are laid over split-pea sauce and lavished with chutneys. It’s textural and messy, brash and comforting, an all-round win. The meat curries are on point. Braised goat is flavoured with charred onions and aromatic, sweet-smoky byadagi chillies. Meri jaan means “my love” – this is a restaurant you’ll want to let into your heart.

Must-order: Pani puri.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.