North Fitzroy Arms Pub Features

Updated October 12, 2026,first published October 7, 2024

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Few pubs have dining rooms this romantic: wax cascading down silver candlesticks, tables covered with heavy linen, every face gorgeously lit. Staff bustle past in brown smocks (her) and chore coats (him), pulling Morgon gamay wine from temperature-controlled cabinets and changing heavy silver cutlery between courses. (And this is a place where you’ll want more than a counter meal.)

To start, order tuna tartare, all mixed up with powerful anchovy cream, and load it onto house-made crisps. Schnitzel-heads – the Arms’ Holstein hype is justified: a handsome piece of veal fried golden and topped with anchovies, a briny caper butter and, naturally, a fried egg.

The pie is a pie floater, pureed peas the colour of grass all around. Its thick gravy unites crust with 12-hour-cooked beef cheek, and it’s served with buttery mash. One room away, the footy’s on, pool cues clack, pints are spilled: it’s the pub, deluxe edition.

Must-order: Schnitzel Holstein.

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