Review of Botanical Hotel

Park the DeLorean out front, because we’re going Back to the Future. Twenty years ago, this South Yarra local sported two Good Food Guide hats and was named restaurant of the year. Now it’s again keeping the neighbourhood happy, with a fitout as slick as the clientele.

An army of polite, well-schooled servers takes cue from the fine-dining playbook but the menu is pure upmarket pub. Grilled calamari is cut to ribbons and arranged on a tomato vinaigrette with plump cheeks of green olives. Chunky duck ragu stands confidently in its richness, while whole spatchcocked chicken is eminently tender and comes with dabs of walnut ketchup and chilli jam.

Ivory tablecloths, dry-ageing meat cabinets and a well-stocked wine shop add to the appeal, as do gorgeous views to the gardens over the road. Great Scott? More like great Bot.

Good to know: Swing by the bar 4pm to 7pm for fancy happy-hour aperitifs.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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