Ipsos brings taverna-style dining to the Great Ocean Road

Both clued-up locals and ambling tourists are greeted with warmth akin to a homecoming at this enduring seaside address. Capable staff move easily through an often-full room soundtracked with subtle Greek accents and anchored by a horseshoe bar.

Grilled kefalograviera cheese is tanned by the grill until gooey inside; match it with a crisp Greek lager or a Victorian chardonnay. (Staff can help you choose from a two-page list that’s so chock-full, it might cause eyes to narrow.)

Fried calamari’s freshness is testament to excellent relationships with local fishermen. Spatchcock strikes the elusive balance of juicy yet crisp, its golden skin scattered with punchy capers, preserved lemon, shallots and thyme. A pocket square of filo pastry with orange-scented custard and yoghurt ice-cream is easy to demolish and hard to forget.

From the contented hum to the soulful cooking, Ipsos is perfectly in tune with Lorne’s tempo.

Good to know: The restaurant takes a long winter break, so be sure to check ahead before you book.

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