Review of Brico restaurant

A trophy collection of empty bottles along the wall. Soft amber lighting that flatters every face. Anchovies, crudites, oysters. Brico walks the talk when it comes to its wine bar moniker, but it’s cut from a different cloth compared to many of its peers.

Not for this crew the same old roster of lo-fi drops. Co-owner Josh Begbie might steer you to a next-gen Mount Gambier winemaker or tell you about the textured verdicchio he’s just opened. Every fresh glass is an opportunity for conversation.

You’ll snack on barbajuan, crunchy parcels of tender rainbow chard and Long Paddock cow’s curd, and righteously al dente orecchiette tossed with slippery greens and throat-catching chilli. Salad leaves – grown at Day’s Walk Farm – are so crisp, so confidently dressed, you’ll be fighting over the last tendrils.

By the time you meet the chocolate mousse, you’ll know Brico doesn’t cut corners. But you’ll still marvel at just how well some bitter chocolate, jammy prunes and flaky salt marry together.

Good to know: Chef takeovers and collabs with winemakers are a regular occurrence – just look at the posters covering the walls. Upcoming dates are posted on social media.

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