Review of Uminono restaurant

It’s the rare sushi counter where you’ll rave about dessert, but Uminono does things differently. A flank of neon-bright Nick Thomm artwork lines one wall, ‘California Soul’ blares from the speakers, and you might snack on fancified fish nuggets with junmai daiginjo sake as a warm-up to the nigiri.

You can now order as much or as little sushi as you like, with a supporting cast of small plates (such as that crumbed and koji-cured barramundi), following a shift to a mid-week la carte menu.

Snapper pressed with kombu is further enriched by a sweep of prawn oil just before a chef passes it to you. Meaty kingfish dry-aged for about a week is presented with spring onion oil and lime zest. Chutoro fulfils every luxurious wish your sushi-loving heart desires, the tuna sourced from Tasmania. If you’d like another piece, just ask.

Dining at the counter is built around a back-and-forth with you and proud chefs, who might show you what’s in the dry-ageing cabinet before plating the menu’s only dessert in front of you. Cool raspberry granita, nutty feuilletine and warm chocolate-hazelnut mousse layered in a ceramic cup: a lesson in contrasts, a study of balance.

Good to know: Saturdays are still for omakase dining at the counter, and on Friday nights Uminono operates like an izakaya, with sushi by the piece and small plates.

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