Greasy Zoes restaurant review

Updated October 12, 2026,first published November 18, 2024

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There’s a pot of gold at the end of the Hurstbridge train line. This tiny-but-mighty fine diner – with two staff and eight seats – makes a strong case for thinking small. Zoe Birch and Lachlan Gardner preside over the fire and the floor, respectively. Birch harnesses the hearth with precision and restraint; Gardner brings gentle warmth to each table.

Flathead, ever-so-lightly smoked, is swathed in purple daikon and nasturtium leaf to form a tiny taco. Gnarly flame-thrown greens take the glory on a meal-starting tart. This is slow food, without shortcuts. Birch churns her own kefir-cultured butter, repurposing the whey in other dishes, and bakes pinwheel croissants mid-service as a vessel for cheese.

Hyper-seasonality and locality are owed to a family of suppliers who are as small as this operation. Just 32 people a week get to experience Greasy Zoes. A decade in, it remains a dining opportunity to seize.

Good to know: Don’t want to drive? It’s a quick stroll from the train station.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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