Yugen Omakase restaurant review

Updated October 12, 2026,first published November 18, 2024

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It’s only human to feel a touch insecure among the fiercely glamorous crowd. But as you descend into Yugen’s moodily-lit subterranean space, towards Jennifer Conroy-Smith’s ceramic light-sculpture, an intimate six-seat counter appears and behind it, chef Sam Chee preparing a 22-course marathon of top-tier catch.

Chee charts a worldly path, flashing Peruvian chilli, chimichurri, French butter and Middle Eastern filo strands across his procession of nigiri, each made with a blend of single-origin short grain rice and vinegar. His maturity shines in a duck egg chawanmushi garnished with rich brown butter and caviar. New South Wales bluefin tuna belly sits alongside a half-torched version from Toyosu; the beef hits the same dual-hemisphere high, progressing from pink Australian sirloin to A5 Kagoshima wagyu.

Seasoning is dialled down when required, letting a Hokkaido scallop stand on simple Murray River salt, or later producing a clean broth of roasted scampi shells. Floor service is sharp, backed by an astute sake and whisky program.

Good to know: Securing one of the six seats requires precise coordination and effort.

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A glam subterranean den that takes cues from all over Asia.