Review of Navi restaurant

Updated October 12, 2026,first published November 18, 2024

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Silence fell over Yarraville when chef Julian Hills debuted his macaron in 2018. It’s brilliant still: black garlic and salmon roe, an elegant compression of earth and ocean and a steely opening salvo that echoes Navi’s grey French-washed walls.

These days, it’s culinary shorthand for the daring experiments that follow, many of which make keen use of native produce. Delicate threads of mud crab are sweeter for the bunya nut broth they’re served in. Rabbit finds its way into an improbably supple dumpling, underpinned by peak-season Jerusalem artichoke and topped with an unctuous rubble of pork.

Duck – the official protein of 2026 – might be served as blushing breast, buttery salumi and the filling of a crisp pastry cigar. The wine list is written and served with passion for Victoria and France alike, but the cod-fat martini – subtly fishy, weighty, genuinely thrilling – is the kind of goth-hued ambition fans come here for.

Good to know: Soon you’ll be able to drop into Bar Gabi, a casual sibling with flame-licked dishes nearby.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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