Charles Duan Named Sommelier of the Year

It’s hard to match the excitingly original cooking at Fitzroy’s Restaurant Gaea: emu tartare, fermented macadamia, carrot jerky. But Charles Duan, a former chef, has done just that, showcasing pairings of rare depth and diversity for chef Mo Zhou’s food.

Start with a ceramic thimble of sweet lemongrass chai, then prepare for lift-off. Luscious sparkling plum cider from China might be followed by cloudy unpasteurised sake from Japan before Duan zooms to Europe, unearthing elegant Czech gruner veltliner, crunchy French cabernet franc or generous Italian primitivo from Puglia. Unfinished bottles even end up in a signature dessert of oxidised wine mousse with granita.

Duan presents each lo-fi pick with a story, and has written an out-of-the-box wine list that holds its own alongside the tasting menu’s 18-plus courses. Rare sakes, up-and-coming producers and undersung wine regions are celebrated, offering intrigue as well as value to the diner. A singular, deft and daring drinks mind.

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