One of Europe’s busiest airports is unrecognisable after $409m revamp

Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) Terminal 3, Italy.

Qantas QF6 to Perth. This terminal also houses British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Etihad, Korean Air, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines, Turkish Airlines and most other long-haul carriers.

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After a gorgeous weekend in Sardinia, I dare not undo my relaxation with a stressful same-day connection back to Australia, making the on-airport Hilton Garden Inn a practical move. I complete check-out, board the complimentary shuttle and we’re off to Terminal 3. Alternatively, Leonardo express trains run from central Rome every 15 minutes, costing €14 ($23) for the half-hour journey or €40 for groups of four. For other parts of Rome and beyond, Frecciarossa and FL1 regional trains also serve the airport.

Fiumicino’s 1960s-era T3 is largely unrecognisable after a four-year, €250 million ($409 million) overhaul, completed in 2025. High ceilings, multi-storey windows with a view and skylights bring an abundance of natural light inside: perfect for this morning’s departure. But I find that €250 million doesn’t cover a full terminal revamp: the older wing (gates 31-61) reminds me of Melbourne Airport’s plain Terminal 4. This is the Rome that I remember from my first visit many years ago.

An enormous screen helps passengers find their way, highlighting check-in counter numbers for each airline. I quickly spot Qantas’ red and white kangaroo signage from afar and wander over. I’m here three hours before departure and there’s surprisingly no queue, and more agents than passengers. With a connecting flight from Perth to Melbourne on the same ticket, I hand over my luggage and get two boarding passes in return.

Today, fast track is the slow lane with several travellers holding things up, debating their eligibility with staff. (If your boarding pass doesn’t say “fast track”, take the hint.) I don’t know what they’re arguing for: the standard queue is empty. I change course to the normal line and get through security while others in the “fast” lane are still waiting to begin.

Make a beeline for Panella – an airport outpost of the widely regarded Roman bakery – for pastries, pizza slices and all things carbs. Illy espresso bar serves fast brews while Caffe Kimbo has longer lines. Most dining and beverage options are upstairs, near the airline lounges. These are easily missed unless you go exploring.

This is the airport for fashionistas seeking Italian brands. Browse the boutiques of Bottega Veneta, Brunello Cucinelli, Bulgari, Damiani, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Ferragamo, Furla, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Prada, Tod’s and Valentino, complemented by international headliners Burberry, Cartier, Dior and Rolex. Less expensive purchases can be made at stores near the food court – Adidas, United Colours of Benetton, WHSmith and a travel pharmacy.

A travel-themed playground keeps kids occupied near gate E11, while a further stroll along the same concourse finds a public piano. It’s an informal yet entertaining affair, with a traveller practising The Fools Who Dream from La La Land – to supportive applause at the end. There’s terminal-wide Wi-Fi with speeds exceeding 35Mbps each way: fast enough for backing up holiday snaps or downloading movies for the flight ahead.

Those with Qantas lounge access are pointed towards the Plaza Premium Lounge, and while it’s sizeable, it’s also crowded. I’m warned that I may have to stand, so after a quick pop-in, I venture next door to British Airways’ lounge: a serene retreat with excellent coffee. Knowing the alliance lounge policies works in your favour when airport staff don’t share the hot tips at check-in.

My first ever long-haul journey was to Italy, and I still remember the airport being old and chaotic on that trip. For Australian travellers, Rome is now up there with the best – as thankfully, Qantas’ flights usually depart from the upgraded wing.

The writer flew as a guest of Qantas. See qantas.com

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