France targets Shein and Temu with fast fashion fines - Reuters

France has introduced a new levy on “ultra‑fast fashion” items sold by a group of online retailers. The measure targets cheaply made clothing that is marketed as disposable and is intended to address the sector’s environmental impact.

The levy, which takes effect this week, imposes a fee on each garment sold by platforms such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress. The charge is set to increase over time, with estimates that it could reach almost €20 per item by 2030.

The policy follows legislation passed in June that seeks to curb the ecological toll of disposable fashion. The law defines “ultra‑fast fashion” as clothing produced and sold at a speed and price that encourage rapid turnover and waste.

Retailers that operate under a more traditional fast‑fashion model, including H&M and Zara, are exempt from the new charge. The distinction is based on the perceived speed of production and pricing structures of the respective companies.

By applying a financial penalty to each qualifying garment, the French government aims to incentivise more sustainable production practices and reduce the volume of short‑lived clothing entering the market. The levy is scheduled to rise gradually, reaching its projected maximum level by the end of the decade.