A triumphant return to old-school pub culture for this beloved pokie-free boozer

I’ve been back a couple of times since the renovation and each time I’m in fresh awe of how busy the place is. Once upon a time, the skinny front bar would be occupied by locals and their dogs, reading the form guide and watching the footy, but it’s now elbow to elbow with people eating counter meals. At 7.30pm on a Wednesday, the pub is so full, we have to circle it several times to find a seat. Even at capacity, staff remain friendly and relaxed and happy to help.

And actually, it feels to me to be a return to what a pub can be if people get behind it: a real pokie-free community hub.

A lot has been said about the changing habits of people going out these days. It’s been a deep cultural shift, and it’s definitely an interesting new chapter for this old boozer. The median age has probably dropped a decade, and there’s a lot of energy in the room. I’m not surprised. Daily specials mean you could have a Wednesday-night martini and cheeseburger with fries for $35 (the ultimate grown-ups’ happy meal) or chuck a solo session on a Monday with a $20 schnitzel. There are $20 specials every weekday lunch.

This is a triumphant return to everything we know and love about the pub, executed with warmth, sympathy and a light touch. I’ll be back.

One of the greatest courtyards in Sydney to enjoy jugs of beer, nachos and easy conversation. Head inside to the pinball room and lose an afternoon.

202 Australia Street, Newtown, thecourty.com.au

It’s all about nabbing a spot in the fairy-lit garden out the back. Famous for their weekly Tuesday trivia, it’s also a choice spot for a Sunday roast and cheap jugs.

165-169 Edgeware Road, Enmore, goldenbarleyhotel.com.au

The jewel of Petersham. The bistro menu and its legendary schnitzel get most of the attention, but there’s also the beautiful courtyard and free-entry raffle on a Friday.

30 Terminus Street, Petersham, whitecockatoohotel.com.au

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