New sushi restaurant opens in Bronte

Speckled blue grouper is firm, sweet, mild and slightly fatty. Deep orange slices of ocean trout have immense depth of flavour and a creaminess, almost like a different animal. Also order the tuna while it’s still in season: there’s the slightly leaner chutoro from the upper part of the belly and otoro – the underbelly of the fish and Rolls-Royce of tuna cuts.

To drink, there’s a very solid range of sake and beer including Kirin and Yulli’s Karaoke Kingu rice lager along with a good no-and-low alcohol program including booze-free Asahi. I’m driving, so I stick with nutty, tannic green rice tea. But if I wasn’t, I’d be digging deep into that wine list, packed with white and red burgundy.

What really sells this restaurant for me is the vibe of the place, and the infectious enthusiasm from the staff. It’s not fine-dining service, but it’s the type of attention that immediately makes you feel comfortable and cared for, whether that’s keeping glasses filled, clearing plates or suggesting a double hit of the dense, caramelised miso financier with yuzu glaze and that ice-cream sandwich.

Atmosphere: Demi-fine dining Japanese food in cool, coastal environs

Go-to dishes: Nigiri ($14- $26 for two pieces); ice-cream sandwich ($9); scallop and prawn spring rolls ($30)

Drinks: Very solid range of sake and beer, and a wine list packed with Old World surprises

Cost: About $280 for two, excluding drinks

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