The Parisian people-watching is on point at this new wine spot by the Bar Copains crew

It’s all thoroughly likeable, even if there’s little relief from all the cheese, flesh and butter. Want some vegetables? There’s plenty of parsley in the jambon persille, a pretty jellied ham-hock terrine plated with proper mustard and cornichons. But apart from the salade, that’s pretty much it.

Even the desserts look like animals or their progeny, from the swan fashioned from choux pastry with wings of white chocolate piped full of coffee and chocolate cream, to the tiny dotted Maison Balzac egg cups filled with creme caramel, two scoops of bittersweet whimsy. That doesn’t make them any less appealing, though. Au contraire.

Crack open the cream. Pick up the Pernod. Is trad-French cooking back? This is your cue to book La Buvette and find out. No, Scrap that. Just wait outside for a table until you’re given the nod.

Atmosphere: Parisian wine bar/bistro where the best seats are out on the street

Go-to dishes: Steak au poivre ($68); jambon persille ($24); duck neck and pork sausage ($48); creme caramel ($8)

Drinks: A fun French-led list, heavy on chardonnay and pinot noir, with carafes, fancy stuff by Coravin, Orangina and $11 Suze and tonics

Cost: About $190 for two, excluding drinks

This review was originally published in Good Weekend magazine

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.