Frenchie

The allure of Frenchie is multi-faceted, but the drawcard that really matters is simple: value. Yes, the room is moody and vibey, and the menu is full of dishes that capture some of the current edible zeitgeist – a little bit French, a touch playful, mostly snacky. But the point of difference here is that everything costs $14.

Everything? Well, yes, practically everything. You can buy a bottle rather than one of the ($14) glasses of wine, and they serve basic soft drinks for less. You can add fries to certain dishes for an extra $7. But everything else – the cocktails, the caviar bumps, the oysters (three per serve), the steak – is $14.

Silky beetroot-cured salmon gravlax rests on foamy green sorrel sauce. Grilled duck breast comes drizzled with a l’orange sauce. Eggplant is cooked to a pleasing slump and smothered in a goat’s cheese sauce. Dishes may not blow your mind, but most are perfectly acceptable.

As for the vibe? The collective relief of a room full of people who know they can have this much fun, without worrying too much about the damage when the bill comes, is downright exhilarating.

Must order: A martini (or three), made with a touch of absinthe, served in a beautiful coupe.

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