Dale La Pau

Rendang is not so much a dish here but the artful expression of marandang, the technique of using coconut milk, spices and patience to coax complex flavours into meat.

Dale La Pau’s beef rendang, arguably Melbourne’s finest, epitomises this craft. The beef is properly dry, slightly sweet from evaporated coconut milk and wearing the oily sheen emblematic of a long cook time. Order it as part of nasi ramas so you can mix and match flavours from other dishes: zesty jackfruit rendang, a beef-lung version, fried eggplant, red sambal and jasmine rice.

Service is functional but friendly and there’s a leafy courtyard out back. Alas, the refined dining room doesn’t encourage eating with your hands, which is ideal for temperature and portion control. Finish with sticky rice in pandan leaf served with thick durian custard.

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